Jun 14, 2021 The 'free spin pawl' in my gun works like it's supposed to and I agree it is handy while loading those fat.45 Colt cartridges but I was just curious if I ever decided to put it back to it's original configuration.I like the icing on the cake comparison however mine is a stainless steel cake!I'll have to see if my friend still has the original part.
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Spinbrawl Mod Apk 0.1.2 Unlimited coins/money Features：. Spinbrawl 0.1.2 MODs APK download – (Unlimited Money/Hacks) free for Android (100% Working, tested!) Ready, SetSpin! Spinbrawl is a casual action game filled with SPINNING HEROES and STRANGE ENEMIES, exclusively available to you as part of its Early Access Open Beta. POWER FREE SPIN PAWL. Rugers are easy to unload and reload because you don't have to go to half cock to open the loading gate. But the cylinder only rotates one way, and when it goes past a click, a round can get hung up coming out and delay your reload. The Free Spin Pawl enables it to spin either way. It will NOT click like a Colt or a stock.
RUGERS FOR COWBOY ACTION SHOOTING
updated June 7, 2004
DISCLAIMER 1: Safe gunhandling is your responsibility.MAKE SURE THE FIREARM IS UNLOADED BEFORE HANDLING OR MODIFYING IT. THESESUGGESTIONS ARE FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY FOR CAS COMPETITORS WHOARE FAMILIAR WITH AND PRACTICE SAFE GUNHANDLING PRACTICES.
The Case for and against Rugers
For: 1. They're hell for stout. You'll never wear one outusing Cowboy loads. The springs won't break. You might wear out some internalparts. I haven't yet. If I do, I'll list 'em.
2. Virtually everything that's necessary to modify themfor CAS you can do yourself.
3. They're heavier than a Colt, meaning less felt recoil.
4. The hammer, when down, allows you to see the sights.
5. They're American made.
6. Parts and accessories are easily obtained.
7. Ruger warranty repair is legendary.
8. They don't cost much. Clones cost more and require gunsmithingto get the timing right (and replacing innards with Colt or Peacemaker Specialists'parts)
9. If you get a Colt or a clone you need a gunsmith totune it for competition. Spring life is estimated at 5,000 rounds. Ideallyyou need 3 guns so that one can be at the gunsmith for its 5,000 round tuneupwhile you shoot the other two. I try to clean my Rugers thoroughly every5,000 rounds.
Against: 1. They're not 'authentic.'
2. They're bigger than a Colt or clone.
If you have acquired a Ruger single-action, either a Blackhawkor a Vaquero, and want to go Cowboy Action Shooting, here's what you'llneed to do.
1. Clean the weapon. Check the internal parts for burrsand rough spots. Make sure everything is properly assembled. Lubricate theinternal parts. (Measure and record the trigger pull--with the weapon unloaded!)
2. Go shoot it-a lot. (Measure the trigger pull--with theweapon unloaded!)
Now it's ready for CAS.
A lot of competitors don't touch it after that. I've talkedto two world class shooters who did little more than that. One disassembledthe weapons and took one coil at a time off the hammer spring until cockingpressure was acceptable and bent the trigger spring to lower trigger pressurefrom 4 to 2.5 lb. That was it.
But then in the spirit of 'It's not perfect till it'smodified,' here are some things with which you can improve it. Whatyou will find here will answer most of the questions of the new Cowboy ActionShooter. The answers to the other questions are:
1. Call SASS with credit card in hand. Join. Get an aliasapproved over the phone. It's faster, and you'll know your alias immediately.They'll tell you it'll take 6 weeks to get your stuff. Ha!
2. That alias is already taken.
3. That alias is taken, too.
4. Yes, you need a gun cart. Build or buy something whichkeeps actions open, preferably which carries the long guns vertically. Orput slings on your long guns, get a pair of saddlebags, and you can carryyour guns from stage to stage with your ammo and 'stuff' in yoursaddlebags. You might be able to do it if without slings, with the saddlebagsover one shoulder. Carry the guns muzzle up.
5. Blue jeans are okay. Take off the Jordache label. Ifyou're playing a movie character, leave the belt loops. Otherwise, cut themoff. Put on suspender buttons. Any kind of boots will do for a beginner,even urban cowboy lizard skins. Shoot first, costume later.
6. .38 is cheaper, less recoil. .45 Colt is more fun andmore authentic, but more expensive. .44-40 and .38-40 are for people witha LOT of time for reloading. .44 magnum is the choice if you want to huntwith the weapon.
7. One strong side, one cross draw is most common. Leatherlined, not suede lined. Buscadero rigs aren't period (exception CommodorePerry Owens, 1890's, Captain John Hughes, Texas Rangers, late 1890s intothe teens), but nobody cares. Wear what you want. It's a fantasy sport.Be safe.
8. If you don't have all of your guns and gear, show up.Someone will take pity on you and loan you a/some guns. Get the gear whenyou can. We know the startup costs are expensive.
9. Period shooting glasses aren't safe. No side protection.This is an area where modern is best.
10. No, they're not really soiled doves. They're just playingthem. They are not available for $2.00.
Before any modifications are done make sure the gun ismechanically as good as Ruger can make it. If you do an action job, or getone done, and then discover there is no way to make your Vaquero shoot topoint of aim with any known ammunition, and you send it to Ruger, it willcome back shooting to point of aim-with all factory parts aboard. Therego your super-zoomy springs and/or hammer and sear.
If it doesn't shoot to point of aim with any known ammunitioneven when shot from a Ransom Rest, the cheapest thing to do is send it toRuger with a test target showing range and ammunition used. If you wantit to shoot a pet load to point of aim, send them a couple of boxes withthe gun.
To determine if it's you or the gun, shoot braced, usingboth hands. If you get a 2' group at 25 yards that's 5' to theright and 6' low, all of the time, then that can be corrected. Do beaware it might shoot to a different point of aim in a pistol rest than handheld. You'll need to be able to shoot a small group hand held to get thesights properly adjusted to the way you'll shoot at a match.
Also be aware most CAS targets are within 15 yards. ThusI sight mine in at 15 yards, but I'm not religious about it. I made sureone gun is capable of hitting the rare long range bonus target at 25-30yards. (One of my practice regimens is to shoot at the rifle targets withthe pistol when the range is opened for practice.)
If it's a 6' group and it's all over the paper, itprobably isn't the gun.
You should be able to shoot, one way or another, 3'groups at 15 yards in order to determine where it's really pointing.
Right handed shooters will often shoot low and to the leftbecause they're pushing the trigger with the second finger joint insteadof using the pad of the first section. Left handers will shoot low right.If you're right handed and you hand the gun to your left handed buddy andboth of you shoot low right, it might be the gun. It's probably not, though.The third most popular beginner post on the SASS Wire is a complaint thatthe shooter's new Ruger shoots low and to the left.
(It's probably shooting low because Ruger thankfully andintelligently puts on a sight which is too tall for anything but full-house.250 gr. loads. It's much easier to take metal off than to put it on, sothis is good.)
In other words, do all of the BASIC marksmanship thingsfirst to eliminate user error. It would be terrible to send one off to Rugerand have them move the point of aim 6' left and 5' up only tocorrect your shooting errors later and have to, with no little embarrassment,call them back. The first time will be free. The second time?
MAKE SURE THE GUN IS UNLOADED BEFORE HANDLING IT.
Don't file the sights until you've settled on a load andgotten small groups with it. See below.
Don't bend the front sight
Don't try to turn the barrel yourself--
--unless you're a gunsmith. Yes, you might be able to doit. If you must file the front sight to raise the point of impact, do alittle at a time. Taking off more is easy. Putting it back is hard.
If it's shooting high, you can't add metal to the frontsight. Send it to Ruger.
Filing the inside of the rear sight will move point ofaim, too, and it might give a better sight picture. It's awfully narrowstock. Opening up the left moves it to the left. Opening it to the rightmoves it to the right.
I don't recommend it, though. You could mess it up.
If you must turn the barrel, turning it to the left, tighteningit a tad, is doable. (This moves point of aim to the right.) Moving it tothe right, loosening it, probably isn't a good idea. (This moves point ofaim to the left.) Mike Venturino's book, 'Shooting Colt Single Actions'shows how.
I don't recommend that, either.
Ruger will do it for free.
Duh. Free, no chance of messing up, vs. a chance of messingup. You decide.
Correcting for shooting low is about all I'm prepared todo at home. First, settle on a load. After shooting against guys using 125gr. .38s at a few feet/sec. I decided 250 at 975 wasn't a good idea andwent closer to 200 at 675. This gave me good small groups but L-O-O-O-W.
Usually, anything which will increase recoil will up thepoint of aim. If it's a less-recoiling load, it will impact lower. No, it'snot that simple, but try it. It usually works.
Read Trailrider's Guide to Cowboy Action Shootingfor instructions on sighting in, and, if you must do it yourself, filing/adjustingnon-adjustable sights.
I would fire groups at the range, then bring the gun home,measure the height of the front sight with electronic digital calipers,tape up everything I didn't want file marks, then using the stones froma Lansky Knife Sharpening Kit lower the front sight .05' at a time,or less, until the groups were where I wanted them.
Now, it's shooting to point of aim with your choice ofammunition, and you've put at least 500 rounds through it or dry fired ita lot and put a couple of hundred rounds through it. (When dry firing asingle action revolver, I was told, always use snap caps. So I do. But Ican't see where a Ruger, with its transfer bar and frame-mounted firingpin, needs it. I do anyway. If you reload make some rounds with no primersor powder in them. Paint them some ghastly color so you won't confuse themwith live ammunition. Put Silicone Seal in the primer pockets. Let dry overnight.Cheap snap caps. Good for reloading practice, too.)
Remember I told you to measure the trigger pull (WITH THEWEAPON UNLOADED)?
Do it again. My 2 Vaqueros, .45 Colt, 4-5/8' barrel,blued, 1998-99 production, came with 64 oz. and 58 oz. triggers new. Afterbreak in, one was 48, the other was 52. Frankly, that's pretty good. Youcan probably live with that. Crispness counts. If yours is mushy and youwant crisp, you won't get there with springs. For that you need a gunsmithor possibly the Powers drop in hammer and trigger kit. We'll discuss thatlater.
But lighter? That's a spring thing.
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I thought these weights were fine for the triggers, butthe cocking pressure was 23 oz., and occasionally I would mess up and ALMOSTcock the gun. With the transfer bar and no half-cock notch, the cylinderwould rotate to the next cylinder, skipping the one you want to shoot. Ifthis happens in a match, one hears, bang, bang, '#$%@&!' followedby bang, bang, click, click, click, bang Those clicks take time.
They can be cured. There's an inexpensive cure and an expensivecure. Both result in better shooting guns. The inexpensive cure is the springkit described below, and the expensive cure is the Power Custom Hammer andTrigger kit described further on. Neither completely cures the problem,meaning that if you really try, you can induce the problem, or Murphy can.
Disassemble the weapon completely. Check each part forburrs and rough spots. Such parts should be SLOWLY, CAREFULLY stoned orpolished away. A Dremel polishing wheel and polishing compound is useful.Throw the grinder bits away. You might be tempted to use them.
When I did this I was pleasantly surprised. Both of myRuger Vaqueros were quite smooth internally, with only the hammer springstrut being a rough stamping.
SPRING KIT
There are several kits available, some with just hammerand trigger springs, some with an extra power base pin spring. I got theWolff kit #RSA-106 from Brownell's, their part # 080-665-106. It includesa choice of 17, 18, and 19 lb. hammer spring, 30% reduced power triggerspring, and extra power base pin spring. At time of writing, it's $18.11.
Before installing the 17 lb. hammer spring, I polishedthe edges of the hammer strut which rub against the groove in the hammer,and the edges which touch the spring, lest any rough edges snag anythingand make it rough. I used a Dremel polisher and Dremel polishing compoundand some flat stones. Yes, all of the blue was polished off.
Then I reassembled the gun with the new springs. The triggershad gone down to 32 oz. and 36 oz. Marvelous. They could be crisper, butthat's about it.
I went and shot the weapons with match ammunition beforegoing to a match with them. 17 lb. might be too light in your gun. You wouldn'twant to be on the clock in a major match and hear CLICK.
The loudest sound on the battlefield is CLICK.
Trust me on this.
If you get an occasional CLICK with the 17 lb. spring,install the 18, then the 19. The kit is available with just the 19 lb. springbecause that will almost always work. It costs less that way.
Now cocking is very light, and I seldom do a bang, click,'$#*@&!' bang, bang, bang, click, click, bang anymore.
REPLACING THE RUGER MAINSPRING
Try the method shown at this website: http://www.cylindersmith.com/Ruger-spring.html
Try the method. If that link isn't current, the methodis to put the spring strut in a vise with the end with the hole in it outand the entire part where the spring goes visible. Put the spring on. Sticka hex wrench/wire/paper clip through the spring and through the hole. Usingpliers rotate the spring until it is all compressed by the hex wrench/wire/paperclip. Now push the spring shoe on the end of the strut with a pair of pliers.Keeping inward pressure with the pliers, remove the hex wrench/wire/paperclip and push the spring shoe until you can reinsert the hex wrench/wire/paperclip. The first time is a bitch. After that it's easy. (If the link is broken,let me know.)
RELOADING DIFFICULTIES
Reloading under the clock is rare in some clubs, commonin others. Reloading a single-action of any sort other than a Smith andWesson is no picnic.
To make things easier three things need to be done to someguns, two to others.
First, to help get the rounds out of the cylinders, theyshould be flex-honed. This is something you can have your gunsmith do, andit isn't expensive. But if you're going to wind up with 2 4-5/8' blueguns, 2 4-5/8' stainless guns, 2 5-1/2' blued guns, 2 5-1/2'stainless guns, 2 7-1/2' blued guns, and 2 7-1/2' stainless guns,and maybe some Blackhawks, too, all of the same caliber, then it definitelybecomes cheaper to flex hone the cylinders yourself.
The Brownell's part #s are, for fine grit:
38/357--#080-608-238
.41--#080-608-241
.44--#080-608-244
.45--#080-608-246
All are $21.22.
Also get the flex-hone oil. Don't use any other oil. #080-608-008$7.63.
Put the cylinder in a padded vise, and, using your drillpress at speeds below 750 rpm, polish all of the cylinders an equal amountof time. Stop frequently, clean the cylinders with Brake Kleen or Gun Scrubberand put it back in the gun. Try it with random empties and see if they dropout every time. Polish again. Take it slow. Don't overdo it.
When they do, stop. Clean, reassemble the gun. If, whenyou practice shooting and reloading you find that they don't drop free,do it again. If only one chamber doesn't, mark it and redo it slightly.
EJECTOR/BASE PIN MODIFICATION
With the long cartridges (ONLY), now you'll discover anotherproblem. When you do have to eject a case, the ejector won't eject it allthe way. There are two reasons.
1. The cylinder base pin knob sticks out too far and blocksthe ejector rod knob from going all the way down.
2. If the base pin knob was short, the ejector spring wouldbind.
Solutions:
Use .38s instead of .357, even .38 Long Colts. They'reshorter.
Use .45 Scholfield instead of .45 Long Colt. They're shorter
These aren't really good solutions. The gun should alwaysuse the same length round because:
a). There will eventually be a little ridge in the cylinderat the end of the case. Then a longer case will hang up.
b). Having special rounds just for reloading situationsis just too gamey to be The Cowboy Way.
c). Ruger recommends against using .45 Scholfield in their.45 L-o-n-g Colt guns. The rim is .01 wider. You can make Scholfield lengthcases out of .45 Colt with a case trimmer, but that's WORK. I've successfullyused Starline brass .45 Scholfield loads with no problems at all.
Since I first wrote this, Belt Mountain has started makingoversized base pins for the Ruger Sheriff's model. One of these on a regularVaquero cures the long base pin problem. If you don't want to buy Belt Mountainbase pins for your guns, read on:
You can, however, cut the base pin knob down and make roomfor more complete ejection.
See the part below about the Belt Mountain oversized Basepins.
I had a machine shop cut one down even with the insideedge of the next to last groove so I could stick a fingernail in the grooveto get a grip on the base pin for pulling it out. It isn't that hard toget out normally. They rounded off the end, and I cold blued it.
Later ones I cut off with a hacksaw and put the base pinin a drill and carefully rounded off the end on a belt sander then finerand finer stones until it was as smooth as the machined one. It was quickerand cheaper. Cold bluing again made it look good. (2 years later much ofthe bluing's worn off the gun in several places, so bluing missing fromthe end of the base pin is no big deal. If you're trying to keep your pistollooking like it just came out of the box, you're in the wrong sport.)
But the spring still bound up. So I took the ejector springoff and took off a half inch and tried it. It still bound up. I took offa quarter inch until it didn't. I got in a hurry with one and cut too much.Do it a quarter inch at a time.
It's at this point I mention that when I got my RugersI took the parts list and ordered spares of every spring and every smallpart, everything I might drop and lose or break. The base pin I cut firstwas a spare. I perfected the technique before doing it on an expensive BeltMountain Base pin.
With this length on a .45 Colt it almost ejectscompletely. Eject with force, and it will shoot the round out quite effectively.
Isn't this an external modification to gain an advantageand thus not SASS legal?
Apparently not, or so I have been told. I have stock partsjust in case. The modified part looks like a Colt. If Colts already havethe part, what's the advantage? If someone complains I suppose I could showup with a Scholfield for reloading stages. Now that's gamey.
(NOTE: May 2001, latest word in the Cowboy Chronicle is the rules committee considers this a legalmodification. I've had no problems with mine anywhere including Winter Range,where they were ptetty picky about following all the rules.)
With a .45 Long Colt it's superfluous as the rounds willfall out if the cylinders are flex-honed. But .38s need all the help theycan get.
BELT MOUNTAIN BASE PIN
The Belt Mountain Base Pin is .002 oversize, and the groovefor the base pin catch is just on one side of the pin, not circumferential.It should be a drop-in part, or more accurately, lubricate and put in slowlyand carefully. Sometimes the groove for the catch has to be filed deeper.If the pin is bigger than the hole in the frame, modify the pin, not thehole. Measure with calipers. Measure the hole. It can be lathe turned .0005or so until it goes in.
Benefits include tighter cylinder fit, more precise cylinder/barrelalignment. Some shooters have said installation of one of these has correcteda point-of-aim problem. After using them for a couple of years I've triedone gun with them and one without and can tell no difference.
CRESCENT EJECTOR ROD.BUTTON
Colts and Colt clones have bigger ejector rod buttons.I've never had trouble finding the stock one, but a Crescent Ejector RodButton, advertised as 'SASS Legal' is available from Brownell's.
Part #737-400-001-blue- $33.00
Part #737-400-001-stainless-$33.00
Mine needed fitting.
EAGLE GUNFIGHTER GRIPS
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If you wear medium gloves, these are a good idea. Theycome in rosewood, with and without checkering, buffalo horn with and withoutcheckering, and 'ultra' ivory without checkering. You pay's yourmoney, and you takes your choice. With them you can expect more controlover recoil and a bit more pointability. I have both wood and ivory andhad problems with both. The ivory pair warped because the screw holdingthem in place was too tight. The wood ones broke because of that. I'm notthat strong. For the replacement ivory ones (no charge) and the repairedwood ones, I fabricated a spacer to keep the screw from ovetightening. Verysophisticated--a Bic pen cut to .501' long cylinders.
POWER FREE SPIN PAWL
Rugers are easy to unload and reload because you don'thave to go to half cock to open the loading gate. But the cylinder onlyrotates one way, and when it goes past a click, a round can get hung upcoming out and delay your reload. The Free Spin Pawl enables it to spineither way. It will NOT click like a Colt or a stock Ruger. So countingclicks won't work when you load the 6th round and want to rotate 3 clicks.
It says, 'Requires gunsmith fitting.' I put twoin without any trouble. Each required stoning at the same place. You mustbe comfortable disassembling and reassembling the weapon completely. Youwill need to several times. The instructions which come with them are quitecomplete and quite good. I won't repeat them here.
TAKE CARE NOT TO LOSE THE LITTLE WASHER! I've spent moretime looking for the little washers than in installing the part. I mentionedthe problem to the people at the Power Custom tent at Winter Range, andthey sent me a bag with a dozen or so in it, a two lifetime supply I wouldthink.
POWER CUSTOM HAMMER AND TRIGGER
The Power Custom Hammer and Trigger have a half-cock notchin the hammer so you can reload the gun like a Colt. The cylinder is linedup when you hear the click. Thus if you're reloading by feel, its much easier.The hammer also feels like a Colt when you cock it. You can just get theHammer and modify the trigger, but the trigger is the inexpensive part,while the hammer is the expensive part, so I just got both. If you haven'talready gotten the Wolff Spring Kit, you can get a kit with hammer, trigger,and spring kit. These are drop in parts, but, again, you should be familiarwith disassembly of your Ruger. These should be put in BEFORE or WITH theFree Spin Pawl. I put in the Free Spin Pawl first, and when I added thehammer and trigger, I had to stone the Free Spin Pawl in order to cock thehammer on each revolver. Fortunately I needed to remove metal. If I hadremoved metal for a different hammer and trigger and didn't need to forthis set, I couldn't have added it back.
The result? The same 32 and 36 oz. triggers, but VERY crisp,and with the neat half-cock notch. Now you can reload by opening the loadinggate with the hammer down, spinning the cylinder as needed, or you can goto half-cock, then open the loading gate, and the cylinder will click 6times as it rotates. This is useful if you're told to fire 5 rounds thenload one. You load the empty chamber, of course, and count clicks, closethe loading gate, cock the hammer, then fire. When you're reloading usingthis, when you hear the click, the cylinder is lined up so that the ejectoris centered on the round, like a Colt.
Other Stuff:
If you have an older Vaquero with aluminum ejector housingand/or grip frame, replace them with steel parts for the extra weight.
That's it. I can't think of anything else you can do toa Ruger. If you need/want to ream the forcing cone to 11°, you probablyshould use a gunsmith. If you like the way a gunsmith's guns feel, you shoulduse a gunsmith. Otherwise you can compete with a gun modified to the limitof the rules for just a few bucks more than the stock gun, and you can havethe satisfaction of doing it yourself.
Don't try that in IPSC Open Class.
CLEANING
I use Bore Snakes as well as traditional cleaning rods.These give a fast cleanup of the bore. I'll 'field strip' theRugers after every couple of hundred rounds of smokeless or after everysession with Black Powder Substitutes (See UsingCleanshot for Cowboy Action Shooting). Meaning I'll pull the base pinand cylinder and pressure clean with Gun Scrubber and/or Break-Free (forsmokeless). I don't detail strip the Vaqueros very often. I've found theyjust don't need it. If I pull the grips and see something, then I'll detailstrip the gun. Otherwise I can pressure clean and get to everything I needto. I also have an ammo can with solvent in it (Brake Cleaner), and I'llsoak the revolver in it field stripped, then blow it out with compressedair and oil it.
USUAL DISCLAIMER 2: I put these modifications in for informationpurposes. You, and only you are responsible for any modifications you mightdo to your firearm and its ultimate safe usage. Suing me won't bring backyour cat or your daughter or your left eye. Do NOT work on a loaded weapon.Cowboy Action Shooting rules require guns to be unloaded except when loadedat the loading table and used immediately in the stage. Another contestantverifies safe loading, and at the unloading table another contestant verifiesthat the weapons are unloaded.
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1. Consider all guns always loaded. Do not pay lip serviceto this. Take it seriously.
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2. Never let the muzzle cover anything you are not willingto destroy. Even when it is 'unloaded' follow this religiously.
3. Keep your finger off the trigger until your sights areon the target.
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4. Be sure of your target and what's behind it.
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Violations of these rules can result in death or seriousinjury.